We have had the pleasure of working with Bob Highfill a handful of times for his column From the Vine in the Stockton Record. We are thrilled to be featured in his new series examining the many phases of vineyard growth leading up to harvest. This first edition takes you to our 116 year old Lizzy James Vineyard in the Mokelumne River sub AVA, located right up the road from our winery and tasting room.
Nature is amazing.
In a matter of months, the bare, dormant vines afield today will bear grapes that will be harvested, crushed and made into wine.
There are several critical stages in the vine’s annual growth cycle that shape the final product. In a four-part series, From the Vine will visit a single special vineyard in the Lodi American Viticultural Area and describe what is happening at these important phases: pruning this month; fruit set in March; veraison, when red varieties take on their color, in July; and harvest in September.
Before diving into the significance of pruning, a little more about the site selected for the series: the Lizzy James Vineyard, owned and farmed by Kyle Lerner of Mettler and Son for his popular family-owned and operated boutique winery, Harney Lane Winery & Vineyards in Lodi.
“Every single vine out here has its own personality,” Lerner said. “It’s amazing.”
Planted in 1904 to Black Prince but soon grafted over to Zinfandel, the vineyard of head-trained vines has been interspersed over the years with different clonal selections of Zinfandel, making the Lizzy James Vineyard truly unique and irreplaceable.
Lerner and his late father-in-law, George Mettler, saved the 19-acre vineyard from possibly being developed into homes or horse farms when they took possession in 2003. The vineyard sits next to a cherry orchard George had farmed since the 1970s, so he and Kyle knew the capability of the site. They had no idea at the time Lizzy James would spawn the creation of their own wine brand, Harney Lane Winery. They opened their doors in 2008 and Lizzy James Zinfandel was an instant fan favorite and has since been one of Harney Lane’s most awarded wines.
“What we’ve learned over the years is each of these vineyards has its own unique flavor profile that can’t be recreated in a new planting,” Lerner said. “We’ve been able to really capture what Lizzy James is all about with that flavor profile.”
No matter the growing conditions any given year, Lizzy James is unmistakable in the glass
No matter the growing conditions any given year, Lizzy James is unmistakable in the glass, Lerner said.
“So you really get that sense of place,” Lerner said. “As a vintner now over the past 15 harvests, that is really what we’ve clued in the most with our vineyards. Each one has its very unique profile, especially with these old vineyards, that can’t be replicated.”
Lerner said the Lizzy James Vineyard, named for his and wife Jorja Lerner’s children: Kirsten Elizabeth and Ian James, is planted on some of Lodi’s best soil, deep deposits of decomposed granite washed down the Sierra Nevada Mountains by the Mokelumne River.
“It wouldn’t surprise me if we had roots 20 feet down,” Lerner said. “These are some of the least irrigated vineyards that we have. We really just try to help them out … pat them on the shoulder and ask them if they’re OK.”
The Lizzy James Vineyard is registered by the Historic Vineyard Society and is one of six selected by Zinfandel Advocates & Producers for its Legendary Zinfandel Vineyard Series.
Earlier this month, Lerner and his crew hand-pruned the Lizzy James Vineyard; they removed last year’s growth: the canes that carried the leaves and grape clusters. Head trained vineyards, like Lizzy James, where the vines are like bushes, are labor intensive, as they are not supported by trellises and can’t be mechanized. The goal always with pruning is to create balance by cutting off as much of the old wood as possible, leaving behind the optimal amount of renewal buds that will supply the fruit canes for the next growing season.
“Vineyards like this are really difficult to manipulate and balance because each vine has to be looked at individually,” Lerner said. “My guys over the past, this will be about our 20th season out here, have really identified each of these vines and understands the level that they function.”
Lizzy James is worth the extra effort and expense
Lizzy James is worth the extra effort and expense, Lerner said.
“Every year when we walk the vineyard tasting through, we get down here and it’s like tasting pillows of grandma’s jam,” Lerner said. “That’s these old vines producing that.”
Grab some of our newest release 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lizzy James Vineyard today! We also offer a dessert wine from this prized vineyard, our Lizzy James Port, offering concentrated flavors of black walnut, dried fig, roasted almond and a mouthful of richness supported by the distinct Lizzy James Zinfandel fruit characteristics.
Thank you to Bob Highfill! Cheers!
